24 May 2013
23 May 2013
Bea and Michel’s 70th birthday
I felt very privileged on the weekend to have been invited to
some French friends’ joint 70th birthday. I was the only non-French person
there but fortunately all three of my students (English classes) were there so
that made things a little easier. Especially as it started at noon, and went
through until 11.45pm. I wasn’t prepared for that, but it was a great day.
It was held in the wine domaine Saint Michel Archange in the
heart of the village. The food unsurprisingly was delicious. Aperitifs and
nibbles (by which time I was feeling like I’d had a meal), then a FIVE course
lunch which went on to about 4pm … a 1 hour break when the local
librarian/historian took a group of us on a really informative walking tour of
Bize. And then back for dinner.
I inwardly groaned at the thought of more food but was told
it was only going to be a ‘light’ meal …. just salads, cold roast pork, and
dessert. deargod…….
20 May 2013
Les Halles
Let them eat horse ….
Nicky and Alan were here for a few days – a stopover to their
annual stay in the Lot-et-Geronne. Nicky said she would like to visit the
traditional bar in Les Halles (food hall) in Narbonne. And that’s exactly what
we did. We ordered: 1 horse, 1 liver, 1 steak. For the record, I ate the steak.
The verdict was that everything was delicious.
This is a very popular bar in the main market (must book
before 12 as they’re lining up for a place soon after….). The owner is an
ex-Narbonne rugby player who likes a bit of theatre. The bar is directly
opposite the beef butcher, and a right next door to that is the horse butcher.
So he calls out his orders as he takes them from the customers – with a megaphone
– to the respective butcher.
The butcher then wraps the meat in paper, and throws it
to him, above the heads of those waiting and those lucky enough to already be
seated. The chips are home made and delicious. Not the place for vegetarians or
anyone squeamish about what’s being eaten here.
Actually one of the most popular dishes at this bar is the tartare dish (raw mince with a raw egg on top, with a little side serve of finely chopped shallots and capers that you mix in yourself) – made with either beef or horse.
14 May 2013
12 May 2013
Sculpture walk
Each year there is a “Sculpture Walk” at Mayronnes in the
Corbieres. It’s in its 19th year and there are many permanent sculptures in
place along the length of the 2.5 hour walk. Every April, a new set of
temporary pieces are added and they stay in place through to September.
The opening day is held in May and this year I’d organised a
group of six of us to go, in two cars, to the event. Apparently there were to
be aperos to start, and a picnic (take-your-own) for lunch, with the
opportunity to meet most of the artists at their respective sculptures.
We arrived with ten minutes to spare – to an empty car park.
Which we thought was puzzling. We were sure we were in the right place. We
were. The opening day was today, Sunday 12th May. I’d organised everyone for
the Saturday 11th. Woops ….
Yep - the only two cars in the car park! |
However, there’s always a bright side. There were no crowds
to contend with. In fact, we didn’t see another living soul on the whole walk!
And we actually all conceded that it was probably better anyway – no waiting to
take photos with crowds of people milling around the artwork!
The walk in the Corbieres hills was stunning and I found the
sculptures for the most part to be really interesting. I took lots of photos,
and have put some of them up here.
And the picnic – well, we pulled off to the side of the road
about a kilometre up the road, next to a small stream. No harm done by missing
opening day – all was forgiven …...
10 May 2013
Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert
We’ve just had Wednesday and Thursday as public holidays – so
went with my friend in the village Miki on a day out. And we decided to visit
Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert … one of Les Plus Beaux Villages de France (the most
beautiful villages of France).
It’s only about an hour and half drive from Bize
and another place I’d yet to visit. Just reminds me how much there is to see in
this region and of course it’s a gorgeous time of year to be out – poppies everywhere……
Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert |
Abbey of Gellone |
A dried ‘cardabelle’ – on quite a few doors in the village and recreated in gift shops in plaster and pottery. It’s supposed to bring good luck and also act as a simple barometer. Apparently the points of the plant’s leaves curl inward when bad weather is on the way. It’s now an endangered species and cutting them (even for the purpose of weather forecasting!) is forbidden – though it does seem that this is not strictly adhered to ……… |
More of those endangered and 'forbidden to be picked' cardabelles! |
Ceramic downpipes |
Ruins of a castle, high above the village |
Hérault River |
Tres elegant! |
A pit-stop at the market in the village of Aniane - delicous warm tarts of goat cheese and onion.... |
… and a kilo of asparagus which is now in full season – €4/kilo |
This huge plane is famous in the village – it was planted in
1855. It is said that during a flood in 1907 a donkey tied to the plane at the
centre of the square was driven by the force of the water inside the abbey,
through the open doors, left on the altar at the bottom of the apse and was
saved from drowning………….. Perhaps a legend – but has a nice ring to it!
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