Bize Christmas Market

For the first time (since I’ve been here), Bize had a Christmas market down on the promenade. Weather was surprisingly mild, and we were treated to a wonderful sunset which looks pretty amazing through the glitzy plane trees.

Foire au gras – Rieux Minervois

At this time of year, there are numerous ‘foire au gras’ (Fat Fairs!) held in the region, and yesterday for the first time I went to the one held in Rieux Minervois. Lots of local produce to be had, and all types of christmas poultry – turkeys, capons (which I’m going to try this year) and duck. In fact the star of the show is the duck and the fois gras. I know its production is controversial, but it is still very much a tradition here and it was rather interesting to see the skilled butchers at work. Photos not for the squeamish...

Christmas decorations

My Christmas decorations are up 365 days of the year – a silver Scottish pine cone that lives around the neck of my little wooden kangaroo. 

And this year I was beginning to wonder whether the village decorations were going to be just as meagre. But no, just a little late this year. However they seemed to have pulled out all the stops, including installing a real pine tree down on the promenade. As of last night, it hadn’t yet been decorated, but I'm expecting great things.....

Barren vineyards

Our walks aren’t always among the trees or vines – this one was partly through large parcels of [sadly] recently cleared vineyards. Quite the desolate landscape….

Green cheese

Green cheese at Capestang Christmas market. Basil flavoured - and behind it, tomato and olive. It’s normal here to taste before you buy (with no obligation to do so) but I always feel a bit funny about doing it, especially if I know I’ve no intention of buying. And the tasting samples are not usually wafer thin slices, they’re usually substantial chunks…..

Walking group Christmas lunch

Each year, there’s a lunch organised at one of the restaurants in the village. And from the club’s funds, there are gifts for all! We had a fabulous meal at La Grange Restaurant at the edge of the village. Salmon terrine, followed by guinea fowl with vegetables in filo and scalloped potatoes, and a selection of little ‘tasting’ sized desserts. Aperitifs, wine, coffee. And then we got our presents - delivered by one of five Father Christmases. This lot don’t do things by halves, and they surely like a dress-up. Well, the men certainly don’t mind donning a frock and wig, as the photos show ……. Bottom line, as usual a good time was had by all. Festive season is looming …….

Noilly Prat

A visit to Noilly Prat in Marseillan on the weekend with friends Miki and Ivan. Marseillan is on the Etang de Thau and is on the route of a day trip that I often take visitors on. But it’s a big day out and I’ve never factored in enough time for a tour of Noilly Prat. So it was a first for me.

A gorgeous sunny (but bitterly cold) day, so the mid-morning tasting was pretty good! Actually, we arrived to be told that our booked tour was cancelled because the woman who runs it had called in sick. But the lovely guy in the shop shut the main door, put up a “back in 5 minutes” sign, and went ahead and gave us a generous 15 minute private tour.

I’d never tasted Noilly Prat before, but found it delicious. And came away with two bottles (the original dry and the red) and a set of small glasses for the bargain price of €11 for 6.

The red is not available for general sale, only in the Marseillan shop – the remainder is exported to the US. I picked up a few recipe cards – food and cocktails, so a few different things on the menu this christmas I think.

The barrels where the Noilly Prat is kept for the initial 18 months are made from Canadian oak and are massive.

Then it’s stored in smaller barrels out in the yard for a further year. The barrels are incredibly weather worn and rustic looking – and in summer sprinklers are played over them four times a day to keep them from totally drying out.

Despite this, up to 8% is lost to evaporation – our charming unofficial guide said this is what they call “the angels’ share”. The unique flavour is from more than 20 (some secret) ingredients – herbs, spices, flowers – being added during the process.

Good work Monsieur Noilly and Monsieur Prat – yummm.